Monday, 24 October 2011

Crustless pumpkin pie

Squash is great for making deserts. It's rich and sweet while being still relatively low on the carbs, and besides richness and sweetness it provides texture and moistness to a cake or pudding. I've used it as a base for all sorts of things, from brownies to Christmas pudding. I've never actually gone the whole hog and made a pumpkin pie with it, though, and with this being squash season, I suddenly thought I'd give it a go.

I decided to go crustless this time. I used butternut squash, cubed and baked covered until soft with a little butter. I mashed this with ground ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, maple syrup and cream. Couple of egg yolks and then folded in the beaten whites. Dotted the top with caramelised pecans (soaked overnight, then fried for a couple of minutes in butter and sugar). Baked until set.

It might sound like a lot of sweetening, but actually it needed very little - probably no more than a couple of teaspoons of maple syrup and less than a teaspoon of sugar for caramelising the nuts.

Verdict: it tasted wonderful; however, there were certain issues. It was a little on the wet side; next time I think I'd roast the squash rather than baking covered to reduce the moisture a little. I think the egg-white-whipping was a mistake, on the whole; it contributed to the wetness and made the whole thing just a bit too soft - it didn't have that sticky custard-like texture. I might also try crème fraîche or mascarpone, or even ricotta, instead of plain cream.

Thursday, 13 October 2011

Chicken with mushroom and tarragon

A supper with a vaguely bistro- or trattoria-lunch flavour. Chicken breast, baked. Put to keep warm. Quickly sauté a couple of mushrooms in butter in the same pan, a sprinkle of tarragon, dash of chicken stock, and a dash of sherry. Reduce and pour over the chicken (there was a bit more sauce than it looks like in the picture, by the way). I had it with some sautéed white sweet potato (ok, that's not bistro-style) and buttered savoy cabbage and carrots. Simple but very satisfying.

Tuesday, 11 October 2011

Spaghetti bolognese

Not real spaghetti, of course. Spaghetti squash.

I'd heard of spaghetti squash, but never actually tried it. It's not all that common in the UK. So uncommon, in fact, that when one turned up in my veg delivery, I didn't recognise it. I just merrily started cutting it up thinking it was some kind of courgette-like summer gourd. However, I quickly noticed the fibrous texture, googled images of whole spaghetti squash, and realised my mistake. I'd been planning a bolognese anyway, so this was perfect.

I baked the squash in halves for about an hour. It still looked pretty solid, but as directed I scraped at the insides with a fork. And... spaghetti! I would never have believed it. Actually, to be strictly accurate, it looks more like thin rice noodles in appearance, but even so. Even the taste was vaguely pasta-like, in a squash-y kind of way.

Fried cauliflower and mushroom on the side.

Friday, 7 October 2011

Bramley cider, danger

The apple tree in the garden has given us a bumper crop. It would be a considerably more bumper crop were it not for the efforts of the codling moth, but that's another story. I can't eat apples raw because of oral allergy syndrome, and there's only so much stewed apple one can eat, particularly if keeping the carbs relatively low. I made a batch of pickled apple, and loads I've given away, and I've even experimented with apple sauce as a hair wash (pretty successful, actually).



Even so, a lot still manage to end up like this:













Bramleys should in theory be good keepers, but not when they've been punctured by codling caterpillars. But then I thought, why not try fermenting them into cider?

I juiced the apples. There is a juicer attachment on my blender, but rather than figure out the instructions I just chopped the apples and pulped them in the blender, then strained through muslin. Quite possibly they'd have started fermenting on their own, but I added some water kefir starter (not the grains, just some of the sugar water the grains had been sitting in). More or less the same process as water kefir - a few days in a big jar, then bottled. You could drink it at any stage, but the longer it ferments the less sweet it will be - and the more alcoholic, probably.

Now, I've never been a huge cider drinker. Most of what you get in pubs, etc, is dismal apple-flavoured alco-pop, but a real, traditional, artisan cider is a completely different article. Just like with beer, actually, though it's harder to find a good artisan cider than it is a comparable beer. Beer is one thing I do definitely miss, but at least that's had the side effect of forcing me to seek out decent ciders.

Anyway, back to the homebrew. Traditional cider apples are a lot sharper than regular apples, but even so the bramley brew comes out surprisingly good. Plenty of flavour, though perhaps a little on the sweet side. I haven't a clue how alcoholic it is, but I'd guess it's definitely more so than water kefir.


So, a definite success. But - and it's a big but - for christ's sake don't use glass bottles. I've never yet had an explosion with fermented beverages, but earlier today I heard a loud, splintering crash from the kitchen. I dashed down, expecting to see crockery in pieces on the floor, and was greeted by a spreading pool of fermenting apple juice and numerous deadly shards from a former EZ-cap beer bottle. The first thing I thought was 'cool, an exploding bottle'. The second thing was, 'what if someone had been standing in front of it when it went off?' My blood actually ran cold.

So. Plastic bottles only from now on. Plastic isn't ideal for food storage, obviously, but it beats a shard of glass in the eye, or in the jugular. Alternatively, let it do the cask-conditioning stage (second fermentation) in a covered jug, or don't tightly seal the bottles - it'll still probably have a little carbonation. The issue is, I think, that with water kefir I always follow more or less the same recipe, so there's a known quantity of sugar. IE, there's only so much fermentation that can happen in the bottle because there's only so much sugar in there to ferment. Fruit juice is more of an unknown quantity. There was far more sugar in there, so the fermentation went crazy, creating more pressure than a beer bottle was designed to withstand.

Wednesday, 14 September 2011

Steak pitfall

This looks like a lovely steak dinner. A ribeye, nicely caramelised on the outside, with brussels sprouts and a few fried potatoes on the side.

But appearances, unfortunately, are deceptive. The steak had been in the freezer for a while. Not eons, but at least six months, and it had developed a distinctly stale note and some freezer burn. I don't think long freezing is necessarily a problem in and of itself. The issue, I think, is packaging. The steak wasn't vacuum packed, but in a sealed plastic tray exactly as purchased from the supermarket. Those plastic trays may be airtight, but they sure as hell don't stop freezer burn and substantial build-up of frost. I've used vac-pack meat, including steak, that's been in the freezer a lot longer than that, and it's been fine. Admittedly, in the case of ribeye the waters are slightly clouded by the fat content, which is always more vulnerable to going 'off', even in the freezer; but I've had this happen with rump too so it's definitely not just the fat.

So the lesson is, if you're going to keep meat in the freezer for longer than a couple of weeks, it's worth taking the time to package it airlessly. I've found simply using an airtight ziplock freezer bag works fine - just squeeze as much of the air as you can out by hand before closing the seal. It saves space in the freezer, too.

I ate the steak, though. It wasn't that bad.

Friday, 9 September 2011

Chicken liver

The latest in the ongoing liver campaign: chicken livers sautéed with onions, sage, and pancetta on the side, plus a bit of mash and buttered savoy cabbage. This was definitely the least challenging yet. The 'liver' flavour is definitely less noticeable in chicken liver than in other types; the grainy texture is there, but on the whole it was really quite pleasant. Progress!

Saturday, 20 August 2011

Banana omelette

A variant on this. I caramelised the bananas, then proceeded with the omelette as normal, dropping them in as one would a savoury filling, with cream and a pinch of salt. More cream and a dash of maple syrup to serve. A weekend breakfast treat.